How to Choose a Natural Gemstone

Start With the Stone You Love

Choosing a natural gemstone is a very different experience from simply selecting a piece of jewellery.

Every natural gemstone is individual.

Two sapphires of the same weight can have completely different colours. Two emeralds can have very different levels of clarity and enhancement. Two rubies of similar size can differ enormously in rarity and value.

That's part of what makes natural-coloured gemstones so fascinating.

At Dream Diamonds, we believe choosing a natural gemstone should begin with something very simple:

Find the stone you love.

Then understand exactly what you are buying.

1. Start With Colour

With coloured gemstones, colour is often the first thing you notice — and one of the most important factors in your decision.

But there is no single colour that everyone should prefer.

One person may love a deep royal blue sapphire, while another prefers a brighter or lighter blue.

You may be drawn to the rich green of emerald, the intensity of ruby, the soft blue of aquamarine, the violet-blue of tanzanite or something completely different.

Even within one gemstone variety, the range can be enormous.

Sapphires alone can be blue, pink, yellow, green, purple, orange, colourless, teal or parti-coloured.

Don't begin by asking:

"Which colour is technically the best?"

Begin by asking:

"Which colour do I love?"

2. Consider How the Jewellery Will Be Worn

Once you have found a colour you love, think about how often the jewellery will be worn.

Is this an engagement ring you intend to wear every day?

A dress ring?

A pendant?

Earrings?

A piece for special occasions?

Durability becomes particularly important with rings because they are more exposed to knocks, scratches and everyday wear.

For engagement rings and jewellery intended for frequent wear, sapphire and ruby are particularly strong coloured gemstone choices because they measure 9 on the Mohs hardness scale.

Spinel also offers very good durability.

Gemstones such as emerald, aquamarine, tourmaline and morganite can also be used successfully in rings but generally require more consideration and care.

Tanzanite and some softer gemstones may be better suited to jewellery where they are less exposed to impact.

The right gemstone therefore depends not only on how it looks, but also on how you intend to live with it.

3. Don't Choose by Carat Weight Alone

Carat is a measure of weight, not physical size.

Different gemstones have different densities, so two gemstones of the same carat weight do not necessarily have the same dimensions or visual presence.

Even two gemstones of the same variety and carat weight can face up differently depending on their proportions and how they have been cut.

When comparing coloured gemstones, consider:

  • Carat weight
  • Actual millimetre measurements
  • Shape
  • Cut
  • Depth
  • How large the gemstone appears when viewed from above

For jewellery, what you see on the hand or in the finished piece can be more meaningful than the number on the scale.

4. Understand the Importance of Cut

A coloured gemstone is not necessarily cut according to the same priorities as a diamond.

With diamonds, cutting is heavily focused on the interaction of light, proportions and brilliance.

With coloured gemstones, the cutter must often balance several competing considerations:

Colour

Clarity

Shape

Weight retention

Inclusions

The characteristics of the original rough gemstone

A beautifully cut coloured gemstone should display its colour attractively and have pleasing proportions and symmetry.

Look for areas that appear excessively dark or lifeless, as well as obvious areas where you can see straight through the stone with little return of light.

But remember that coloured gemstones are products of nature. Perfect mathematical symmetry should not necessarily be expected in every exceptional natural stone.

5. Understand Clarity Differently

Diamond buyers often become accustomed to clarity grades such as VS1, VS2 or SI1.

Coloured gemstones need to be approached differently.

Many natural-coloured gemstones commonly contain inclusions.

Emerald is perhaps the best example. Its internal characteristics can be so distinctive that they are collectively known as its jardin, or garden.

Ruby, sapphire, tourmaline and many other natural gemstones can also contain inclusions.

The question is not simply:

"Does this gemstone have inclusions?"

Instead ask:

  • Can I see them easily?
  • Do they distract from the beauty of the gemstone?
  • Do they affect transparency?
  • Could they affect durability?

Inclusions are part of the natural story of many gemstones.

6. Ask About Treatment

This is one of the most important steps when buying a natural gemstone.

Remember:

Natural does not necessarily mean untreated.

Many natural gemstones undergo treatments after they are mined.

Sapphires and rubies may be heat treated.

Emeralds may be clarity enhanced with oil, resin or other substances.

Some rubies may be fracture filled.

Other gemstones can undergo irradiation, diffusion, coating, dyeing or other processes.

Some treatments are well established and widely accepted within the gemstone industry.

Others can have a much greater effect on value, durability and care requirements.

Don't be afraid to ask:

  • Has this gemstone been treated?
  • What treatment has been detected?
  • Does that treatment affect its value?
  • Does it change how I should care for the gemstone?

7. Decide How Important Rarity Is to You

Not everyone buys a gemstone for the same reason.

One customer may simply want the most beautiful sapphire possible within a particular budget.

Another may specifically want a fine unheated natural sapphire.

Someone else may be looking for an emerald from a particular geographic origin.

Another collector may be interested in a rare spinel, Paraíba-type tourmaline or exceptional natural ruby.

As rarity increases, prices can rise substantially.

Decide whether you are primarily buying for:

  • Beauty
  • Rarity
  • Origin
  • An untreated stone
  • Size
  • A particular colour
  • Collectability

or a combination of these factors.

There is no universal answer.

Understanding your priorities helps us search for the right gemstone for you.

8. Understand Geographic Origin

For certain important gemstones, geographic origin can influence desirability and market value.

Examples include rubies, sapphires and emeralds associated with historically important mining regions.

But origin should never automatically be confused with quality.

A gemstone from a famous location is not necessarily more beautiful than one from somewhere else.

The individual stone still matters.

If a substantial premium is being charged because a gemstone is claimed to originate from a particular country or region, we recommend that the claim be supported by an appropriate independent laboratory report.

9. Look at Certification

For significant natural gemstones, independent laboratory documentation can be extremely important.

Depending on the gemstone and laboratory, a report may provide information such as:

  • Confirmation that the gemstone is natural
  • Identification
  • Weight and measurements
  • Colour description
  • Whether detectable treatments are present
  • Whether indications of heating have been detected
  • Degree of clarity enhancement in certain gemstones
  • In appropriate cases, an opinion regarding geographic origin

Depending on the gemstone and circumstances, internationally recognised laboratories may include GIA, Gübelin Gem Lab, SSEF and AGL, among others.

Not every gemstone needs an expensive laboratory report.

But as the gemstone becomes rarer, more valuable or is being sold on the basis of important claims about treatment or origin, independent verification becomes increasingly important.

10. Remember: A Certificate Doesn't Make a Gemstone Beautiful

Certification is important, but it is only part of the decision.

A laboratory can help establish what the gemstone is.

It cannot decide whether you love it.

Two sapphires can have excellent laboratory reports and still look completely different.

One may have a colour that immediately captures your attention.

The other may leave you completely unmoved.

The certificate supports the gemstone.

It doesn't replace the gemstone.

We believe you should consider both.

11. Compare the Actual Stones

Whenever practical, compare more than one gemstone.

Looking at several stones side by side can quickly help you understand your preferences.

You may discover that you prefer:

A slightly lighter sapphire because it appears brighter.

A more included emerald because its colour is exceptional.

A smaller ruby because its colour is far more intense.

A different shape because it suits your hand better.

A heated gemstone because it gives you the appearance you want within your budget.

There is no substitute for seeing and comparing actual gemstones.

12. Set Your Budget – Then Look for Beauty

A budget is important, but it should be used intelligently.

Instead of simply asking:

"What is the largest gemstone I can buy for this amount?"

consider asking:

"What is the most beautiful gemstone I can buy within my budget?"

Sometimes a slightly smaller gemstone with exceptional colour and cut can be far more impressive than a larger stone of ordinary quality.

Other times, size may be your priority.

There is no right or wrong answer.

Our role is to explain the differences so you can decide what matters most to you.

13. Choose the Gemstone Before Finalising the Design

For natural coloured gemstone jewellery, we often recommend selecting the gemstone before finalising the jewellery design.

Why?

Because every natural gemstone is different.

Its exact dimensions, shape, proportions and colour can influence the design surrounding it.

Once we know the exact stone, we can consider:

The setting style

Claw placement

Metal colour

Halo proportions

Side stones

Band width

Overall scale

How best to protect the gemstone

The jewellery can then be designed around the actual stone rather than trying to make a unique natural gemstone fit a predetermined design.

14. Consider the Metal Colour

Metal colour can have a significant effect on the appearance of a coloured gemstone.

White gold and platinum can create a crisp, contemporary appearance.

Yellow gold can provide warmth and contrast.

Rose gold can work beautifully with pink, peach and certain green or blue gemstones.

There is no rule that says a particular gemstone must be paired with a particular metal.

Sometimes we may even combine metal colours within the same piece to achieve a particular effect.

The goal is to find the combination that best complements the gemstone and the person wearing it.

15. Think About Protection in the Setting

The jewellery design should take the durability of the gemstone into account.

A ruby or sapphire can generally tolerate more everyday exposure than a more delicate gemstone such as tanzanite.

For gemstones requiring additional protection, we may recommend a setting design that protects vulnerable edges or corners.

The shape matters too.

Points and corners on shapes such as pear, marquise and emerald cuts may require particular consideration.

Good jewellery design isn't only about making the gemstone look beautiful.

It should also help protect it.

A Simple Natural Gemstone Checklist

Before choosing an important natural gemstone, ask yourself:

  • Do I love the colour?
  • Is this gemstone suitable for how I intend to wear it?
  • Do I understand its actual size as well as its carat weight?
  • Is the cut attractive?
  • Are the inclusions acceptable to me?
  • Has the gemstone been treated?
  • Do I understand the treatment?
  • Is a geographic origin being claimed?
  • Does that origin materially affect the price?
  • Is there appropriate independent laboratory documentation?
  • Am I paying for qualities that actually matter to me?

And finally:

Would I still choose this gemstone if I had several others sitting beside it?

If the answer is yes, you may have found your stone.

The Dream Diamonds Approach

At Dream Diamonds, we don't believe choosing a natural gemstone should simply mean selecting a photograph from a catalogue and clicking "add to cart."

For an important natural gemstone, we believe there is a better way.

Find the colour you love.

Understand the gemstone.

Compare the options.

Review the treatment and certification.

Choose the individual stone.

Then design the jewellery around it.

With more than 40 years of experience in diamonds, gemstones and jewellery manufacturing, we can source individual natural gemstones and help you understand the differences between them.

Once you have selected your gemstone, we can custom design and manufacture a piece specifically around its individual shape, dimensions, colour and character.

Because the most beautiful natural gemstones weren't created to look exactly alike.

Your jewellery doesn't have too either.